Can I Grow All of These Mums in My Area?
All of our large, exhibition style varieties are as easy to grow as any ordinary chrysanthemum. They can be grown in ANY area if suitable protection from freezing can be provided.
Chrysanthemums are sun lovers, and can be grown in pots or in the ground, in a location which receives at least a half a day of sun.
In colder areas where the bloom season may be shortened by cold weather, potted mums should be moved to a protected area. In cold locations, chrysanthemums growing in the ground can be potted up in September and moved into a sheltered area. They suffer little setback with this procedure, and you can have beautiful blooms through Thanksgiving!
If you live in a hard freeze zone, choose varieties with earlier bloom dates. The bloom date for each variety is listed along with the description. The earliest bloomers are from September to mid October and include the Garden Cushion mums as well as some early blooming taller types, in the various classes. The bloom dates provided are based on central California, and can vary as much as two weeks depending on latitude and temperature. For instance, blooms will flower earlier in the northern latitudes and later in the South. Also, cool fall temperatures will hasten blooms, while prolonged heat will delay the bloom.
With just a few provisions, our customers have enjoyed beautiful fall chrysanthemums in climates as diverse as Arizona and Michigan!
Soil Preparation: Chrysanthemums will grow in almost any soil type. But, the addition of humis materials such as manure, compost, leaf mold, or peat moss is very beneficial. Superphosphate at the rate of 3 lbs. per 100 square feet is recommended. Gypsum or Dolomite lime is also recommended at a rate of 10 lbs. per 100 square ft. Top
Planting: Shallow planting, no deeper that the plant was in its rooting mixture. Initial planting should be into small pots until established and growing well. Space 15 inches apart in all directions. Good drainage is most important. Top
Cutting Back: If your plants are more than 10" tall on July 1st, we recommend cutting back to 4" or 6", leaving some good green foliage or growth below the cut. The result will be shorter plants and better foliage at bloom time. On large flowered cultivars, select the most vigorous growth that results after the cut and make no further stops or pinches. Top
Pinching: When growth resumes after cutting back, removal of the very tip growing portion of the stem will promote more branching and flowers, and in some cases help determine bloom date. Large flowered types should not be pinched after July 5th. Small flowered types can be pinched up to Aug. 5th. An earlier pinch date will be necessary for September blooming types. Top
Lateral Removal: Large flowered types will onlyachieve their full potential of size and form if growth is restricted to several stems, three being an average. All side laterals or branches must be removed as they occur. Remove them when they are short and soft so they do not rob the stem and developing buds of potential growth. Top
Disbudding: Large flowered types will only reach their maximum size if flower buds are restricted one to a stem. For best results, remove all but the largest center bud in a terminal bud cluster when bud clusters are still very small. Terminal bud clusters will contain from 3 to as many as 5 buds. Crown buds which are the first to occur and are born singly, produce the earliest blooms. Top
Fertilizers: The regular use of a high Nitrogen and Potassium fertilizer will greatly increase flower size and numbers, We recommend incorporating a slow re-lease fertilizer such as Osmocote 14-14-14 at planting time plus a weekly feeding of a high analysis liquid fertilizer such as Rapid Grow, after August 1st and until flower buds show color. Change to a 10-10-10 fertilizer, or no fertilizer, after this date. Top
Insects and Disease: Careful monitoring of your insect population is important. Don't let development spread from a few plants. Spot treatment of individual plants, particularly in the case of aphids, can often prevent spread to a general infestation. Lack of thoroughness in treating the underside of leaves is usually the reason for rapid reinfestation. Don't use the same type of insecticide more than three successive times or insects may become resistant. Soap and light oil spray are quite effective, but the target insect or mite must be contacted to be effective. Don't use soap sprays on blooms. Top
Winter Care: Chrysanthemums on the whole are not entirely winter hardy in areas of hard freeze. In cold winter areas, dig up plants, prune back, and store in a protective area such as a cold frame, basement, or any area where they can be protected from freezing. If left in the ground, mulch heavily with straw, decomposed manure or similar materials. In warmer areas, don't be hasty to cut back old stems until signs of new growth begin at base of plant. Top
SELECTION OF CULTIVAR:
PLANTING TIME AND CONTAINER:
TRELLISED WIRE SUPPORT:
TRAINING AND PINCHING:
FEEDING AND WATERING:
Aphids will be the main problem. Establish a regular schedule of once a week spraying or dusting with a general purpose spray or rose dust until buds show color. After this time dust lightly only, or flower injury may occur. If insecticide resistance is encountered, change to an entirely different unrelated chemical or insecticidal compound.
[top of page]